A glowing review from Gemima Cody
Here it is, the latest comeback tour from a headline star of Melbourne dining circa the '90s. Not that Donovan Cooke has been off-radar for the past seven years. But Ryne, his 60-seater in Fitzroy North where he's throwing down the hits from a career spanning decades, Michelin stars, and the much-missed Est Est Est, is a return to intimate gigging following stadium shows at the casino's Atlantic.
The pitch? "Real cooking, like we used to do," according to Cooke. Which, yes, smacks of every generation in history dissing what the kids are listening to these days. And true to his word, Cooke is kicking it old school. Here are sauces with formal names, dinner with a two, three or seven-course buy-in (happily though, a bar menu has arrived to bridge the gap) and the kind of military, self-flagellating prep that's never done anymore and is really very nice.
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