Time Out Melbourne
It sees the return of a ’90s great, but Ryne is also a restaurant of unabashed edible comfort. Comeback-slash-greatest hits tours were all the rage in 2017 (hello, Paul McCartney, Bruce Springsteen, Bonnie Tyler et al), so it’s good timing that Donovan Cooke, winner of the most appropriately-named chef in Australia award, has chosen to throw open the doors on his new restaurant Ryne at a moment when nostalgia perfumes the air.
The same year Melburnians were learning the macarena, Donovan Cooke was polishing moves of his own at the hottest dining room of 1996, Est Est Est. One of the so-called Brit-pack of English chefs who invaded Melbourne and shook up the food scene in the 1990s, Yorkshire-born Cooke is now reprising some of his hits from that era at his 60-seat restaurant, Ryne, in Fitzroy North. It's an ambitious proposition in a suburb more boho than Boomer.
Est Est Est. Luxe. Ondine. Donovan Cooke is synonymous with the excitement of Melbourne dining after his trio of 1990s and early naughties hits. After biding his time at Crown Casino’s The Atlantic he’s back with his very own Fitzroy North offering, Ryne. The smart 60-seater is already making memories of its own thanks to Euro-classical dishes like the seared scallop ceviche and pork belly with pineapple and jelly fish.